Blue Sky Bakery

According to a report in Time Magazine, extra girth can have a calming effect on the brain! Perhaps that is why I feel so relaxed this afternoon; I just got back from some intensive waist-widening at the Blue Sky Bakery.

Blue Sky's offerings change daily at the whim of Nadezda, the Serbian-born pastry chef. Sometimes, Nadezda will feel like baking a traditional English apple pie. Other days find her experimenting with exotic variations on American staples, such as zucchini banana plum muffins or even pizza with ham and mangoes. Lately, to my great delight, Nadezda has felt inspired to serve up some delectable dishes from her native country: acak, a rice, dill and yogurt dish, and gibanica, a delicious filo, egg and feta quiche. I have never tasted a quiche quite like this; it is rich and airy at once with its many layers of buttered pastry and eggs.

I have already been to Blue Sky twice this weekend, and from now on, I intend to stop by at least hourly. Maybe I'll see you there.

Blue Sky Bakery: 53 5th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 783-4123. Call to find out which goodies they have today!

25 Dumplings For $4.50

My stomach has a mind of its own. It does not often heed my brain's suggestions to eat in moderation.

At Cafe Glechik in Brighton Beach, my stomach prevailed once again. This venerable Ukrainian cafe specializes in two kinds of dumplings: vareniki (half-moons stuffed with your choice of potato, cabbage, meat, sour cherries or farmer's cheese) and pelmeni, round dumplings filled with either chicken, veal or eggs and cheese. Amazingly, a big plate of 25 plump dumplings costs only $4.50-$7.50. I recommend the vareniki "Kuban" style, with mozzarella, dill and parsley.

(Other favorite dishes of mine at Cafe Glechik are the green borscht and the luxuriously oily smoked mackerel.)

Cafe Glechik: 3159 Coney Island Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 616-0494.

The German-American Parade 2003: Sept. 20

Tomorrow, they'll break out the bratwurst and serve up the sauerkraut at the annual German-American Parade. The Spaten and Warsteiner beer will be flowing, as will the Niche wine. After you've eaten a few Karl Ehmer brats, don't forget to stop by the Alma's Desserts tent.

In other Deutschland-related news, German biergarten Loreley will celebrate its
grand opening on Oct. 4 with live music, food tastings and 12 beers.

The German-American Steuben Parade 2003 will take place at 12 p.m. along 5th Ave. from 63rd St. to 86th St. Loreley is located at 7 Rivington St. (212) 253-7077.

Alfama (CLOSED 8/09)

I've sorely missed O Padeiro, the Portuguese bakery formerly in Chelsea. Therefore, it was a comfort to discover Alfama, where I drowned my nostalgia in vinho verde. My favorite items at O Padeiro were the pasteis de nata (small round custard tarts with incredibly flaky crusts). Alfama sells them by the dozen and includes a few for free with the check!

Wednesday nights at Alfama are fado nights, so make a reservation to hear the traditional music of Portugal. Women draped in black sing passionately while the homesick Portuguese at the bar hum along to the beloved melodies.

The highlights of my meal were the cheese plate and the dessert (I couldn't quite adjust to the extreme saltiness of the bacalhau in my main course). My cheese choices included the evora (a hard cheese reminiscent of Manchego), a spicy paprika-dusted Toledo, and a creamy soft-ripened Serpa. Next time I will try the peppercorn-encrusted Ribafria and the Serra, one of Portugal's most famous cheeses.

Whenever I spy the word "trio" in a selection on the dessert menu, I always order that item in hopes that it will provide three times the pleasure of an ordinary dessert. The doces conventuais was comprised of three traditional Portuguese egg-based desserts: fio de ovos, or sweet angel hair; abade de priscos (rich dense egg-yolk flan) and the transcendent toucinho do ceu, a delicious egg cake made with Algarvean almonds.

I finished things off with a bica (espresso) and staggered off into the night.

Alfama: 551 Hudson St., (212) 645-2500.

Eat For Free In NYC

If you haven't got a ha'penny, there are still some dining options for you! This week at Cowgirl (519 Hudson St., 212-633-1133), free muffins (and milk) are being served to celebrate the start of the school season. But make sure you start up your engine early; the freebie is only available from 8:15-8:30 a.m.

Although there's no such thing as a free lunch, Village (62 West 9th St., 212-505-3355) lets its happy hour guests stuff themselves with tasty fried polenta. And if you're a downtown resident or employee, the free all-you-can-eat sushi extravaganza is still going on every Thursday night this month from 5-8 p.m. at Unity Restaurant (102 North End Ave., at Embassy Suites, 646-769-4200).

Deluxe Food Market Inc.

Are you the most adventurous carnivore whom you know? Do your friends shake their heads in disbelief when you order the alligator special? Then I'd urge you to check out Chinatown's Deluxe Food Market Inc., where you will be amply rewarded in your search for mystery meats. The narrow, brightly lit shop is filled to the gills with preserved duck necks, salted duck tails, smoked duck feet, fresh squab, dried shrimp sausage and something called "chicken paste". (Your more conservative friends will enjoy the baby back ribs and fresh fish.) Look for the roasted ducks hanging in the window.

Deluxe Food Market Inc.: 79 Elizabeth St., (212) 925-5766.

Bayard's Heirloom Tomato Festival -- Today!

Forgo that after-work cocktail today and head over to Stone Street downtown, where Bayard's Restaurant will host its first Heirloom Tomato Festival from 5 to 9 p.m. The tomatoes are all products of the chef's 50-acre organic farm. Bring your appetite; the festival will include a large buffet!

Vacation On The Vineyard

On Martha's Vineyard this week, I happened to pick up this week's New Yorker, where I found my thoughts mirrored in Calvin Trillin's paean to classic and simple foods: "What Happened To Brie And Chablis?"

If you don't have a copy of the magazine, here is a snippet of Trillin's witty poem on page 69:

"You miss, let's say, trout amandine?
Take hope from some menus I've seen:
Fondue has been spotted of late
And -- yes, to my near disbelief --
Tartare not from tuna but beef.
They all may return. Just you wait."

Now, I am as big a fan of squash blossoms and huitlacoche as anyone, but I still find comfort in old-fashioned recipes and simple ingredients. This week, I indulged in locally-caught smoked bluefish from Larsen's Fish Market of Menemsha, some downright fantastic brick-oven pizza at Lattanzi's, a breakfast of poached eggs over cayenne-spiked crab cakes at The Daggett House (Closed as of 2004), a wonderful linguine with garlicky white clam sauce at Chesca's (oh, the visceral pleasure of those impeccably fresh littlenecks), and rich creamy fudge at Murdick's (one variety made with Cape Cod cranberries).

I also conducted my own informal fish-and-chips contest, involving Nancy's Harborview Restaurant, Seafood Shanty, The Wharf Restaurant and the winner: The Black Dog Tavern. The Black Dog's superior rendition was a plate of steaming moist fish in a crispy cornmeal crust over a heap of French fries, served with a side of homemade slaw.

When I recover from this week of excess, I will be ready to sample more of the Big Apple's glorious offerings! Stay tuned for new reviews.